sábado, 6 de octubre de 2012

Fine Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon





Wine has been produced in Chile for centuries, records indicate vines first being planted in 1554, so by now, it stands to reason, some fine wines should be being produced, and we, at Concha y Toro have experience dating back to 1883 in producing some of the best the country has to offer.

At over 2,700 miles long Chile is the longest country in the World, it therefore has many varied climates; ranging from desert in the North to ice-fields in the South, with the middle of the country enjoying a Mediterranean climate -it has often been referred to as a Winemaker’s Paradise.
This is why we decided to host a tasting of our best Cabernet Sauvignon’s, to show just how far Chile has come. What better varietal than Cabernet Sauvignon to measure the success of a nation.

Where we were:
 
Where better to show-off Cabernet Sauvignon than in one of London’s best steak-houses Goodman.
With a selection of wines, from the Limarí Valley in the North to the traditional heartland of Chilean winemaking Maipo and a menu that no carnivore could turn down we started.

Who we were:

 
Michael Cox, Director of Wines of Chile; Matthew Cocks, The Thomas Cubitt; Ivo Stoyanov, Joel Robuchon; Sergi Beneito, Lime Wood and Robert Giorgione, The Roving Sommelier.


What we ate:

 
In a nutshell meat! For both the starter and main course, but here’s the detail on the steaks for all foodies; USDA (United States Department of Agriculture approved) bone in rib- eye and USDA T-bone from across the pond, corn fed beef and from our own land Buccleuch bone in rib-eye and O’Shea bone in sirloin, grass fed.

The chit-chat pre dinner:
 
Talk of Chile’s ability to make good quality and fine wines, the Maipo Valley in particular as the heart-land of their winemaking history and the provenance of Concha y Toro. The soils in this part of Chile are very poor in nutrients with a higher than average salinity stemming from the irrigation of the Maipo River and low potassium levels. In this area we normally harvest our grapes one to two weeks after the Merlot and Cabernet Franc have been taken in. If a vineyard gets too cold we tend to have more green bell-pepper and herbaceous notes to the wine, alternatively, if they get too hot stewed fruit and blackcurrant nuances creep in.
 
Food and wine pairings:


 
With our starter of beef Carpaccio, basil cress, shaved parmesan, aged balsamic and olive oil (pictured above) we had a glass of both the Cono Sur 20 Barrels 2007 and Terrunyo 2008. Before tasting a morsel we all sipped the two different wines to form our own opinions, interesting to note that Sergi was a fan of the 20 Barrels, citing it as more elegant than the Terrunyo, however, once the wines were tasted with the starter the concentration in the Terrunyo matched more ideally.
Ivo commented that it was the basil cress and parmesan which enhanced this coupling, the fragrance and saltiness both bringing out the fruit of the wine on the palate; he also said that the 20 Barrels would be the more European match of the two wines.
Both Robert and Matt agreed that the elegance and structure of the Terrunyo was best to hold the flavours of the delicate Carpaccio.
 
The steaksbefore and after, it was all absolutely delicious, as good as it looks and then some, with the steaks we had a selection of sides, salads, truffle oil chips and a selection of sauces.

 
To accompany this amazing food we had the top Don, Concha y Toro’s flagship wine, Don Melchor, named after the founder of the winery; Don Melchor de Concha y Toro. We had the 2008 vintage which has 3% Cabernet Franc and has spent 15 months in French oak. This wine definitely had the structure and richness to complement both the corn & grass-fed meats. There were distinct flavour differences between the meats, the corn-fed USDA steaks being slightly richer whereas the grass-fed had more depth of flavour, it was fun to re-taste both the Terrunyo and 20 Barrels, both fared well, but with the meat it had to be Don Melchor, so typically Chilean in style but with elegance and refinement.
 
To accompany these cheeses; Colton Basset, Golden Cross, Coolea, Tunworth and Keen’s cheddar we opted for something a little different; a wine from the some of Concha y Toro’s most Northern vineyards. The Maycas del Limarí Reserva Especial 2006.
Limarí is at the edge of the Atacama Desert, one of the driest places on Earth, and pretty much without irrigation the only plant that will grow is the cactus.
With the struggle for water the vines have to work extra hard, and this is producing wines which have incredible intensity of flavour. Alongside this they have a really distinct mineral quality which goes really well with the rich, ripe cheeses. This was a great match!



Best wine...
 
Without doubt the flagship; Don Melchor 2008 with its rich, ripe fruit flavours and excellently integrated tannins.

Best wine/food pairing...
 
The Terrunyo and the Carpaccio, both complimenting each other perfectly; the depth of flavour from the wine with the herbal soft meat and aromatic olive oil.

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